Many things influenced me to dream of traveling Bali. Aside from its reputation as honeymoon place or #TravelGoal #RelationshipGoal destination, it is also tagged to be the last paradise on earth. I won’t disagree with that! The island has complete list of things to do from the peaceful and relaxing natures and waterfalls of Ubud to the noisy nightlife and beach of Kuta .

My first sight of Bali was back in 2004 when I was still in first year high school through a Korean drama entitled “Memories of Bali”. The fact that I was in love with the story and characters of it, it also convinced me to visit Bali one day. Starting that day I made it a goal to travel Bali someday when I grow older. That burning desire grew stronger when I was in university, I came across with a newspaper article entitled “Bali, The Last Paradise on Earth”. It talks about the beautiful sceneries, cultures and clear blue ocean of Bali. So I said to myself I really must go to Bali. After a few years I was already working when I watched Julia Roberts movie “Eat, Pray, Love” where it featured Ketut: the Medicine Man in Bali who predicts Julia’s future saying she will lose everything but she will gain it back and she’ll return to Bali and he will teach her everything he knows. It also shows the beautiful town of Ubud where Ketut is living and some of a must visit islands. She ended up being in love again, settling in Bali and raising some funds to help the people of Bali. Finally, the year 2017 after 13 years when a friend and I decided to backpack for a month in Southeast Asia and included Bali in the list of countries we’ll be visiting. My dream came true!

Disclaimer: Bali is one of my dream places. Yes! But not all the things I’m going to mention here will be positive or in favor of Bali! There are fair share of good and bad experiences I had during this trip and I am completely honest in writing about them. This blog is not to bring negativity but to give you an idea of what to expect. In my opinion Bali is still a must-see place.

HOW TO GET TO BALI

Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines fly directly to Bali from Manila at approximately 4-5 hours. A round trip ticket cost from ₱8,000- ₱20,000 depending on the season. Airasia also flies to Bali with a layover in Kuala Lumpur at an estimated cost of ₱7,000- ₱12,000. In our case we flew from Bangkok, Thailand to Bali, Indonesia via Airasia for 4 ½ hours that cost us ₱ 6,150 each with no check in baggage.

GETTING AROUND BALI

Bali has no fix and systematic mode of public transportation which I think is the number 1 drawback of this place. The most common mode of transportation here is either taxis and private cars (which are overprice) or renting a motorbike to go around. I read some about Kura-Kura van that goes from Kuta to Ubud however we haven’t experienced it when we were there. So we usually walk from one site to another or use Grab and Uber. However, most of tourist sites in Bali ban these taxi apps from picking up passengers due to strikes from drivers saying they’re losing their jobs so a good haggling skill is necessary to avoid being ripped off. There are also circumstances that the Grab driver will ask you to pay 3x more than what is in the app rate. My tip, book a driver that has 5 stars rate only.

WHERE TO STAY

Originally we plan to stay for the whole time in Ubud and just do day trips in Kuta however seeing the transportation problem in Bali then it won’t be smart for us to do so. For 6 days in Bali we decided to stay in two places, Ubud and Kuta so we’ll not be very far from our day trips in each area. There are various accommodations to choose from in Bali from private villas to hotels, homestays and guesthouses. We booked our first place in Ubud in Made Arsa Homestay (totally recommended). It is 1 kilometer away from the center of Ubud but I am very satisfied with this place. I observed that unlike in other cities in Southeast Asia where it is more convenient to stay in the center, Ubud has the opposite approach. In Ubud center the restaurants and stores are more costly than in our area. Although 1 kilometer away from the center there are many cheap local eateries and food stall around here. Luckily our homestay also provides free breakfast and transportation to the center although that is not necessary for us since we are used to walking.

In Kuta we stayed in Legian Road near the beach. It is very convenient place, near stores and restaurants, pubs and clubs and all the wild night life.

PLACES TO VISIT

UBUD

Ubud is more of countryside, nature tripping mood. The town is known as a center for traditional crafts and dance. The surrounding Ubud District’s rainforest and terraced rice paddies, dotted with Hindu temples and shrines, are among Bali’s most famous landscapes.

UBUD MONKEY FOREST

Ubud Monkey Forest, also known as the Sacred Monkey Forest of Padangtegal, is one of Ubud’s most popular attractions; a natural forest sanctuary that is home to a horde of grey long-tailed macaques. The village’s residents view the Monkey Forest as an important spiritual, economic, educational, and conservation center for the village. You can watch or see the monkeys and be entertained as they play or remove lice from each other. You can also feed them with bananas that can be bought in the forest or if they are curious enough they might jump into your shoulders or head and hang in there for a while. One funny thing I experienced when a monkey jumped into us for some cuddling or food the staff guarding the place would immediately shoo the monkey away but if you pay some cash they would invite the monkey to stand on your head or your shoulders so you can take pictures with them. However be warned that these monkeys are curious of everything so it is advised to watch out for your belongings and don’t bring food and tissue because chances are they might snatch those things from you. This place doesn’t only let you hang around with monkeys but also will give you a bit of a hike since it is a large forest type of place.

Entrance Fee: IDR 50,000 (₱188)

Banana:           IDR 50,000/ bundle (₱188)

CAMPUHANGAN RIDGEWALK

A free and easy nature trek, popular among Ubud visitors. The area provides a great retreat and escape from the contemporary boutique, guesthouse and restaurant-lined in Ubud. The hike doesn’t only let you enjoy cool fresh air and see gorgeous hillside vista in the region, it also allows you to shed off some calories with its nine-kilometer hill track. The place is not difficult to reach since it is present in google maps and signages are present as you do your trail. At the end of the trail you will see rice paddies, some hostels and cafes that are present there.

Entrance Fee: Free

TEGENUNGAN WATERFALLS

Hmmm.. What can I say, when we searched google for waterfalls this is the number one recommended place to us. The closest natural attraction that you can reach within half-hour transfer southeast from Ubud town. Getting to the falls is a pleasant drive down paved village roads lined with stretches of green rice fields on both sides. There are hot springs where you can take a dip if you want to be away from the crowd or a little side trip after taking photos on the waterfalls.

Entrance Fee: IDR 15,000 (₱56)

Additional IDR 10,000 (₱38) if you go on top of the waterfalls.

TIBUMANA WATERFALLS

A bit of an underrated waterfalls in Bali but a bit of a so so too, maybe because when we were there, there’s not much water and I’m kinda disappointed with the trash gathered in the hole at the back of the waterfalls. It is not that popular so don’t expect much crowd in the place which is good however because of that reason also there are no taxis standing by when you leave. So travellers usually either have their own drivers waiting for them or they have their own motorbikes. There’s also no restaurant around the area but there’s a store selling snacks and drinks only.

Entrance Fee: IDR 10,000 (₱38)

GOA GAJAH (ELEPHANT CAVE)

We discovered this place by accident when we were desperately looking for a taxi going home from Tibumana waterfalls. This is an archaeological site of significant historical value that makes it a special place to visit. Located on the cool western edge of Bedulu Village, six kilometres out of central Ubud. You do not need more than an hour to descend to its relic-filled courtyard and view the rock-wall carvings, a central meditational cave, bathing pools and fountains.You are required to wear a sarong upon entering and you can also hire a guide as you go around but not necessary.

*note: Female visitors who are on their period are NOT ALLOWED to enter the temple.

Entrance Fee: IDR 15,000 (₱56)

UBUD WATER PALACE

Located in Jalan Ubud Raya, very near the market and next door to the Lotus Café can be reached on foot if you are staying in Ubud center. In the daytime, it is nice, with large lotus ponds reflecting the gorgeous Balinese architecture of the Palace facade. The palace is closed to public so you will just settle outside for pictures.

Entrance Fee: Free

TEGALALANG RICE TERRACES

Tegallalang Rice Terraces in Ubud is famous for its beautiful scenes of rice paddies that spread down before you and away to the rice paddies on the slopes across the valley. The high roadside location is cool and breezy however when you reach there on a sunny midday until 4 pm, prepare to be burned as the hot Indonesian sun is no joke. It is a well-known spot for tourists to stop and take photos but be aware of some locals offering to take pictures with them then suddenly would demand to pay them for it. Painters and nature lovers also enjoy visiting this spot, and there are numerous art kiosks and cafes near the ledge offering their ware. Although the entrance fee is by donation some locals around the terraces would demand you to pay them IDR 10,000 (₱38) for you to pass by since they are claiming that they own the piece of pathway way you are passing by. Some would even block the way and won’t let you pass which I find very aggressive. Anyway it is still a must see place just go there prepared.

Entrance Fee: Donation (Most visitors pay IDR 10,000 but for us we gave IDR 2,000)

KUTA

An exact opposite of Ubud. Ubud is peaceful and quiet while Kuta is wild and energetic place since it is a beach and resort area in the south island of Bali, Indonesia. One of Bali’s first tourist developments where the modern era of tourism in Bali began. It’s best known for its party-centric atmosphere with wild nightlife and high concentration of bars, nightclubs, and hotels. Kuta’s Indian Ocean long sandy beach with consistent waves make it a popular surf spot, particularly for beginners, with plenty of outfitters offering board rentals and surf lessons. It is popular with younger travelers and those on a budget. There are plenty of cheap accommodation to choose from. Traffic is really mad sometimes and it can get really busy, but it is still a great place to meet people and have fun.

KUTA BEACH

It’s considered Bali’s most famous beach resort destination. Once a simple, rustic and quiet fishing village, Kuta Beach has witnessed a transformation over the past years. This is due to the rise of various accommodation options, dining and shopping scenes. The rapid growth owes much to visitors, beachcombers and art lovers from nearby Australia. Expatriates also helped pioneer surfing in Kuta, as well. Don’t expect a white sand beach here or crystal clear blue sky water but be amazed with its waves that have great reputation in surfing for beginners or professional that is hyped by surfers from all over the world. Although its waves are not that high it is still perfect for beginners. Alleys of bars and cafes are lined to view the beach while relaxing on their comfortable seats or cushions with beer and live music or just simply spread your sarong and lie on the beach to get a tan.

SEMINYAK BEACH

Not far from Kuta beach you will find Seminyak beach a few east feet away. The waves in this beach are way bigger than in Kuta perfect for professional surfers. The alley of bars and cafes along the beach of Kuta is stretched until Seminyak. This area is also a home to high end and luxurious beach resorts, restaurants and boutiques with a more secluded ambiance. I must say there’s no big difference between the two beaches since they’re just next to each other except their waves.

ULUWATU TEMPLE

One of the comment from tripadvisor said “A so so temple located in a perfect cliff with a perfects sunset.” I kinda agree to that. First the temple is close so I can’t access and comment about it. However the location is just so perfect for sunset and ocean viewing. The high blue noisy waves of the Indian Ocean is so addicting to watch plus the fact that it has a clear blue water. Most visitors visit the temple at around late afternoon to view the sunset and for the Kecak Dance performance, a Balinese traditional fire dance that happens at 6:00 pm. Be advise to wear modest clothes in going to the temple. Sarongs and belts are provided in the entrance after you get your ticket. Be vigilant on your belongings because the monkeys here are smart or hungry enough to snatch your things away from you. When we were there several cases of snatching happened from cellphones, earrings, sunglasses, hats, cameras and water bottles. As much as possible avoid wearing accessories or just simply avoid the monkeys. Although staffs are there to help you, prevention of this situation is way better than solving it.

Entrance Fee: Adult: IDR 30,000 (₱112)                   Children: IDR 20,000 (₱75)

Kecak Dance: IDR 100,000 (₱375)

Private Car: IDR 300,000 (₱1,125)

• Note: We rented a private car and a driver we met on the street. His first price for a round trip to Uluwatu temple is IDR 500,000 (₱1,870) but we haggled until it went down to our agreed price.
• Agencies offering tours or private cars going to this temple are around Legian area. Their prices varies from IDR 350,000 (₱1,310)- IDR 750,000 (₱2,800) others include Tanah Lot Temple.

I remember during my first travel in my life. It was a solo and overseas travel in Bangkok, Thailand. I did a lot of impractical mistakes in traveling. I was alone, amateur and scared so I booked my hotel near the airport which is far from the city center and visitor’s sites. I used overpriced taxis. I didn’t invest in mobile data and rely on people for directions which end up unsuccessful since English is not that widely spoken in Southeast Asia. I didn’t do much of research that resulted to disappointment because I thought that this travel was unproductive. I didn’t see a lot of tourist’s sites and I didn’t learn much about their culture. As time passes I learned more practical ways to enjoy traveling without breaking the bank and would engage me more to the culture of the place I am traveling. Traveling for three years now and lived overseas for six months I learned that there are places that are meant for beginners and places for experienced travellers. Countries which English is widely spoken and have organized mode of transportation can be very convenient to travel however, these countries can also be more expensive to travel. So, when my friend and I did our backpacking in Southeast Asia and we started in Ho Chi Minh, I noticed that this city can also be good option for first time travelers.

Ho Chi Minh city formerly known as Saigon is a city in the south of Vietnam named after their late Prime Minister and National Hero, Gen. Ho Chi Minh. This bustling city doesn’t only offer sky scrapers that lights up the city at night but it is also rich in historical and cultural sites and home of flavorful Vietnamese delicacies. During our stay here I noticed how convenient it is to travel Ho Chi Minh. Although English is not widely spoken here, people are helpful when it comes to directions. Bus routes on the GPS are accurate and updated. So if you are a beginner in traveling who wants to have a mix of traditional and modern city and still have the taste of being a traveller then Ho Chi Minh is for you.

Starting in the airport, which is gladly near the city with a well-organized taxi system. You can approach any of the booths offering taxi to your hotel with a fixed price of VND 210, 000 ($10).  If you have Uber or Grab Taxi app, there’s no problem because they are also just around.

WHERE TO STAY?

I suggest you stay in Bui Vien, District 1 where most of the backpackers stay. It is 30 minutes away from the airport by taxi. One advantage of staying here is it is near the visitor’s sites, has lots of cheap restaurants and street food with lively bars and clubs that makes the walking street alive at night. There  are a lot of affordable budget hotel rooms and dormitory rooms plus tour agencies, money changers are everywhere in this area. We also spotted a cellphone shop here that sells sim card and registers your sim for affordable mobile data plan that only cost VND 110,000 (PHP 220) unlike other stores that sell tourist sim card for VND 200,000- 450,000 (PHP 400- 900).

TIP: Get a Mobifone sim card for VND 40,000 (PHP 80) load for VND 70,000 (PHP 140) and register by typing M70 send it to 999. You get 1.6 GB mobile data plan for 1 month.

PLACES TO VISIT:

We started our travel by doing a historic city tour. From our hostel and equipped with a GPS we walked going to Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon, Ho Chi Minh Central Post Office, Ho Chi Minh City Hall, and Independence Palace. We visited them in order since they are next to each other.

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL BASILICA OF SAIGON

An iconic landmark of the city located downtown and built by the French colonizers. The orange cathedral is open daily from 5:30 am to 5 pm. However with its undergoing renovation that will last until 2019, visitors are not allowed to enter for safety purposes.

HO CHI MINH CENTRAL POST OFFICE

Another French built architecture just beside the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon is the Central Post Office. Although it is a functioning office with busy workers stamping and sorting loads of mails, we were still able to stroll around the area and get mesmerized with the architecture. On the left and right wings of the entrance there are stores selling souvenir items, postcards and lacquerware.

HO CHI MINH CITY HALL

Just few feet away from the Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon, we found ourselves in Ho Chi Minh City Hall. A sunny cream-and-yellow hue European inspired building built in 1902 to 1908. It was formerly known as Hotel de Ville but when the Communist took over before 1975 it was renamed to its present name. This place is gorgeous by day and stunning at night because of the lights surrounding the building. Unfortunately since it is a government office, it is close to public.

INDEPENDENCE PALACE

Originally the home and command center of Government General. In 1954 the Saigon government took over the place and renamed it to its current name. The palace witnessed series of historical events especially with the political life of their previous presidents. It also undergone massive renovations due to its bombing incident in 1962 and an army tank crashed on its gate in 1975. Now, it is functioning as a museum which features combination of Western and Eastern architecture.

Entrance Fee: VND 30, 000 (PHP 60)

WAR REMNANT MUSEUM

Before I step in this museum I thought it was just another museum showing the colorful history of Vietnam. However, as I was looking around reading the caption of every picture I came across with, I learned that this place is dedicated to the saddest history of Vietnam, The Vietnam War. Photographs and military equipment are on display in this museum. Documentary videos are played to show what happened during the long bloody war and its result. Outside the museum military tanks, helicopters, aircraft fighters and rocket launchers are well preserved. One thing that I found very heartbreaking is the part of the museum where they showed photos and videos of people especially children who suffered from “Agent Orange”. It is a chemical attack done by the Americans during the war.

Entrance Fee: VND 15,000 (PHP 30)

TURTLE LAKE

Although there are no live turtles present in this park people call it Turtle Lake because long time ago there was a turtle statue in this man- made lake. However when a group of people bombed this area the turtle statue was destroyed. At night this park lights up with colorful fountain and street food vendors start to pop. I would say this place is popular among locals enjoying the view of the fountain and gorging with street food after their long day at work or school. It is not touristy because when we were there, I only saw two foreigners beside us trying out some street food.

BINH TAY MARKET

More local food? Head on to District 5 where Binh Tay Market is located. It is in the heart of China Town where you can find cheap goods. However early this year the French architecture building was under repair for its preservation. The stalls are extended outside the building where visitors can still buy souvenirs and taste unique Vietnamese delicacies.

JADE EMPEROR PAGODA

The only temple that we visited in this city. To my observation it is a place where most locals visit to say their prayers. There are not much foreigners visiting this temple. There is no entrance fee and their dress code is not that strict here but I suggest you to dress modestly since you are entering a sacred place.

MEKONG RIVER DAY TOUR

The lifeblood of Southeast Asia passing through six countries, from China, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. The mud-brown river also played a big role in the history of trading and diverse cultures between these countries.

We booked our day tour via agency near our hotel in District 1. Different agencies may vary in prices from $9-35 per person. We were lucky to get a deal with $11 which includes a day tour with free lunch. The tour starts at 8:30 am hotel pick up then travel for an hour and half going to My Tho, the gateway to Mekong Delta.  We took a glimpse of Vinh Trang Temple then we took a boat going to different villages where we tried their pure honey, ate tropical fruits, paddle boats and ride horses. We also went to this coconut village where we learned the process of extracting coconut oil and how they make different products out of it.

EXPENSES: For 4 full day- tour for 1 pax

TRANSPORTATION:

Taxi from airport to hotel: VND 210,000 (Php 440)

Motorbike from Turtle Lake to hotel: VND 50,000 (PHP 100)

Bus from Bui Vien District 1 to Binh Tay Market: VND 5,000 (PHP 10)

Bus from Binh Tay Market to Jade Emperor Pagoda: VND 5,000 (PHP 10)

Bus from Jade Emperor Pagoda to Bui Vien District 1: VND 6,000 (PHP 12)

ACCOMMODATION (Giang Hotel): VND 450,000 (PHP 900)

FOOD (Vietnamese food sold on the street stalls, eateries and convenient store food): VND 1, 000,000 (PHP 2,000)

ENTRANCE FEES:

Independence Palace: VND 30, 000 (PHP 60)

War Remnant Museum: VND 15,000 (PHP 30)

MEKONG RIVER DAY TOUR: $11 (PHP 550)

TOTAL: PHP 4,112

NOTE: plane ticket not included since we returned in the Philippines from Bali, Indonesia but we flew to Ho Chi Minh from Manila via Cebu Pacific for PHP 2599 with no check in baggage.