Batok ia a hand poke tattoo using pomelo or lemon thorn as a needle and mixed charcoal soot with water in a coconut shell as an ink. The ink is mixed with blood when hand poked against the skin which creates permanent ink on the body. For people from Kalinga this body art is more than just an accessory on the body. It came from the long gone culture of tribal war and head hunting especially for men. In the past when a man comes home victorious from a tribal war, he receives a batok tattoo from a mambabatok (tattoo artist). This represents his strength, bravery and ability. For women, they start getting a tattoo at the age of 12 this represents beauty, wealth and being ready for marriage. The art of getting a batok tattoo includes fortune telling and chanting ritual for good luck done by the mambabatok.
To be a mambabatok is hereditary. It is not a calling for someone who just wants it as they should be from a family of one. It is passed down to their offspring or descendants. Sadly, all the mambabatok already passed away that made the batok tattoo culture almost dead. However, in the mountain village of Buscalan lives a centenarian woman who still practices batok tattoo. She is said to be The Last Mambabatok who paved the way for her culture to continuously thrive in this modern time, Apo Whang-Od. Even though she doesn’t have children she is able to pass down this culture to her grand nieces. She was also able to teach the art of batok tattoing to the new generation of Butbut tribe. Due to her hardwork and passion for her craft she was able to receive numerous awards and was featured to different documentaries, shows even the April 2023 cover of Vogue Philippines Magazine. Having a celebrity status didn’t stop her from being humble and continuously working for her culture to be known all around the world. Despite her age, she still does her signature 3-dots tattoo for people who want to experience batok body art.
I personally look up to her ever since news about her image being displayed in Royal Ontario Museum in 2016. Since then I have been wanting to meet her and get a tattoo from her until recently I took that journey and made it happen. As a result, I compiled a guide on getting inked by the living legend, Apo Whang-Od.
The Journey To Buscalan
The easiest way to get to Buscalan where Apo is residing is through package tours offered by travel agencies. They offer different types of tours including Sagada and Ifugao side trips. When you join a package tour, you can save time because they drive directly to Buscalan. It can also be more affordable since food is included in the cost. They charge from ₱3,500 to ₱7,500 per pax depending on the tour and side trips. There are plenty of them on Facebook and can easily be searched.
On the other hand, if you are not comfortable with traveling with a group then you can also opt for a DIY. If you are taking off from Manila, start in Victory Liner Kamias Terminal Cubao to go to Tabuk, Kalinga estimated bus ride is 10-12 hours. Upon reaching Tabuk head to St. Williams Cathedral and take the vans going directly to Buscalan. Another option is buses to Bontoc, Mt. Province then get off in Bugnay, Tinglayan. It may take 2-3 hours ride depending on the road condition because there are a lot of road constructions recently. In Bugnay, you will have to take the habal-habal for 15 minutes to the jump off point. This is where you will register and hire your local Tour Guide for the whole trip. After this process, you will hike the narrow cemented pathway for 30- 40 minutes to reach Buscalan.
Another route option would be Manila to Bontoc, Mountain Province via Coda bus. This journey may also take shorter than the Manila to Tabuk, Kalinga one. In Bontoc town proper take the jeepney or van to Kalinga and get off in Bugnay, Tinglayan. Travel time is 1-2 hours.
Accommodations in Buscalan
There are plenty of homestays in Buscalan as locals open their doors to travelers. Even when you don’t have advanced booking there is high chance that you will have a place to stay. Since I am an overthinker and I like planning ahead, I searched our homestay online. Facebook is really helpful tool in looking for your accommodation in advance. We stayed at Buscalan Tattoo Homestay with Bonfire and we got a decent room with balcony and rice terraces view. They also offered free rice and unlimited Buscalan coffee. Mind you, our guide is really nice enough to do the cooking for us which we didn’t expect. The standard rate of accommodation is ₱400 per person per night. Discounts for children and senior citizens also apply. There is no signal in Buscalan so you will be totally disconnected from the outside world but some accommodations have paid wifi. They charge per hour or per day.
*In case you want to book with them, you can contact them at 09983147338. You can also reach out to the owner’s Facebook Gaspar Laguinday. For Tour Guiding service contact Ms. Icel Banao at 09460835272.
The Best Time To Go
The Philippines have 3 seasons. Summer, from March to June, rainy season is in the months of July to October and cool-dry in November to February. Since Kalinga is in the northern part of the country expect that during the rainy season most of the typhoons will hit the province. This is actually the worst and the riskiest time because the roads in the Cordillera are landslide prone. You can also expect a lot of road construction that can slow down your travel. Summer is a good season because you will just deal with the heat but the best season is cool-dry specifically the month of January. This month is ideal because the holiday is just over and most people are already back to their work therefore there are chances of low number of visitors. Another one, the typhoon season is over so expect a smooth road trip to Kalinga. Lastly you can experience cold weather in the Philippines where the temperature can drop to 15° celcius or even lower which is not very common in a tropical country.
For day of the week, it is highly recommended to go there on weekdays specifically Tuesdays and Wednesdays because there are not many visitors. We were there on a Friday and we still waited for the whole day to get our tattoos from Apo because people start to flock on Thursdays. So if you are visiting Sagada, Mt. Province or Banaue, Ifugao you might want to go visit Apo in the middle of the week.
Keep In Touch With The Locals
Traveling to Buscalan is still not common compare to traveling to more popular places in the Philippines like Cebu or Palawan. Going there is a bit tricky that is why it is advise to reach out to locals such as tour guides and homestay owners in advance. Before we packed our bags we watched a lot of vlogs and read blogs about traveling to Buscalan but we still ended up somewhat lost. One incident was that the vans going directly to Buscalan were not available during our travel. Good thing our homestay owner picked us up to the bus station and took us to a bus heading to Bontoc and instructed us to get down to Bugnay. Upon reaching Bugnay, we were meet by our guide that is already arranged by our contact person. That move made our journey smooth.
*I am posting our local guide and homestay host phone numbers just in case you are interested. You can also search them on Facebook. I highly recommend them.
- Buscalan Tattoo Homestay with Bonfire: 09991805012
- Gaspar Laguinday: 09983147338
- Icel Banao: 09460835272
The Travel Cost
I already mentioned earlier that package tour cost can be the most convenient and cheaper way to go. However for those DIY travelers here is the tentative breakdown of expenses.
- Bus (Manila to Tabuk, Kalinga) : ₱1,200- ₱1,350 Roundtrip: ₱2,400- ₱2,700
- Bus (Tabuk to Bugnay): ₱230 Roundtrip: ₱460
- Habal- habal (Bugnay- Jump Off Point): ₱150 Roundtrip: ₱300
- Tour Guide: ₱1,000- ₱1,500 (max 4 pax per guide)
- Registration Fee: ₱100
- Homestay: ₱400 per person a night
- Food: ₱100-150
- 3 Meals: ₱300- ₱500
- Gisi (thorn needle): ₱100
- Kalinga Designed Tattoo: ₱500- ₱3,500 (depending on the design and size)
- 3-dots Tattoo by Apo Whang Od: ₱300
- Homestay Wifi: ₱40/ hour or ₱300/ day
The total cost depends on how many people you are in a group and how long will you be staying. You can split the cost of the tour guide and food if you decide to cook in your homestay.
Sample Itinerary
For reference this is to give idea how much time you need to get a tattoo from Apo Whang-od.
- Day 1
- 7 p.m: Night bus to Tabuk, Kalinga
- Day 2
- 5 a.m: ETA in Tabuk
- Breakfast and head to St. Williams Cathedral
- 9 a.m: ETD of Bus to Bontoc passing by Bugnay
- 11 a.m: ETA in Bugnay
- Lunch and take the habal-habal to Jump off Point
- 12:00 n.n: ETA to Jump Off Point, Register, Secure your number for when will you meet Apo Whang-od and hire a guide
- 12:15 p.m: Start hike to Buscalan Village
- 1 p.m: ETA in Buscalan, Pay Registration Fee and Check in Homestay
- Wait for your number or your turn to get a tattoo from Apo.
- While waiting you can shower and get your Kalinga Tattoo first
- 6 p.m: Dinner, Socials and Bonfire
- 9 p.m: Lights off
- Day 3
- 5:30 a.m: Sunrise at Bucalan Rice Terraces
- 6:30 a.m: Cofee and Breakfast
- Prepare to get a tattoo from Apo if you did not make it yesterday
- If not, then prepare to leave and travel back to Manila or do side trip in Mountain Province and Banaue, Ifugao.